The Gilded Bistro

“The waffle fry presents itself at The Gilded Bistro with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Gilded Bistro belongs to this school. The waffle fry, double-fried in blended, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”