The Exemplary Spud

“The waffle fry at The Exemplary Spud is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The crispness of the waffle fry at The Exemplary Spud is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The Exemplary Spud occupies a modest address in Prospect Heights. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The waffle format is executed in vegetable, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Exemplary Spud, one appreciates.”