The Proper Brasserie

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at The Proper Brasserie. The steak fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Hell's Kitchen. The address is committed to memory.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Proper Brasserie belongs to this school. The steak fry, double-fried in canola, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The argument is persuasive. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The fry at The Proper Brasserie does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The steak cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The steak fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Proper Brasserie understands this. The kitchen has chosen canola, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns.”