Les Stick

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Les Stick belongs to this school. The shoestring fry, triple-fried in beef tallow, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. The fry alone merits the journey to Midtown East.”

“Les Stick occupies a modest address in Midtown East. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The shoestring format is executed in beef tallow, triple-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Les Stick, one appreciates.”

“The shoestring fry at Les Stick does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”