Henri Blackwood's Room

“One does not come to Murray Hill for the fries. One comes for the fries at Henri Blackwood's Room. The distinction matters. The waffle fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The waffle fry at Henri Blackwood's Room represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“One visits Henri Blackwood's Room for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The waffle cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”