La Plank

“One visits La Plank for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The thick-cut cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The thick-cut fry at La Plank represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The sunflower does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The thick-cut fry at La Plank has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The thick-cut fry presents itself at La Plank with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One returns.”