The Exemplary Fryer

“One does not arrive at The Exemplary Fryer lightly. The matchstick fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The single-fry technique is evident in the exterior: architecturally significant. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. This guide notes the address. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The Exemplary Fryer occupies a modest address in Astoria. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The matchstick format is executed in vegetable, single-fried to a finish that is architecturally significant. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The fry at The Exemplary Fryer does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The matchstick cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is architecturally significant. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry alone merits the journey to Astoria.”