Leblanc's Brasserie

“The steak fry presents itself at Leblanc's Brasserie with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“Not every establishment in NoHo understands its own fry. Leblanc's Brasserie understands its fry. The steak format, single-fried in vegetable, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. One returns.”

“A kitchen that single-fries in vegetable has made a commitment. At Leblanc's Brasserie, this commitment is honored. The steak fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One arrives skeptical at Leblanc's Brasserie. One departs converted. The steak fry is responsible for both. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The fry at Leblanc's Brasserie does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The steak cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Leblanc's Brasserie knows this.”