Mathilde Bernard's Bar & Grill

“The steak fry at Mathilde Bernard's Bar & Grill does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Mathilde Bernard's Bar & Grill applies it correctly. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The crispness of the steak fry at Mathilde Bernard's Bar & Grill is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. The address is committed to memory.”