Avenue Plank

“One does not seek drama at Avenue Plank. One seeks fries. The shoestring format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“At Avenue Plank, the shoestring fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Avenue Plank, one appreciates.”

“One does not come to Midtown West for the fries. One comes for the fries at Avenue Plank. The distinction matters. The shoestring fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The shoestring fry at Avenue Plank is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”