Fontaine's Bar & Grill

“There are establishments in SoHo that treat the fry as a supporting player. Fontaine's Bar & Grill is not among them. The crinkle format is ambitious. The duck fat is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The fry at Fontaine's Bar & Grill does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The crinkle cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The crispness of the crinkle fry at Fontaine's Bar & Grill is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”