Pierre Kim's Table

“The waffle fry at Pierre Kim's Table is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“At Pierre Kim's Table, the waffle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is absent, in the practical sense. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The waffle fry at Pierre Kim's Table has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (absent, in the practical sense), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (calibrated with clinical precision). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Pierre Kim's Table, one arrives closer to an answer. The waffle fry, double-fried in lard, presents crispness that is absent, in the practical sense and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One returns.”

“The waffle fry at Pierre Kim's Table represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior is present as a rumor. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”