Dupont

“The wedge fry at Dupont does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The wedge fry presents itself at Dupont with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One returns.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Dupont produces a wedge fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and earnest and specific interior. The canola is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“One does not seek drama at Dupont. One seeks fries. The wedge format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”