The Golden Pomme

“Not every establishment in Jackson Heights understands its own fry. The Golden Pomme understands its fry. The shoestring format, double-fried in blended, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The shoestring fry at The Golden Pomme requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. blended has been employed with discretion. One returns. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“Not every establishment in Jackson Heights understands its own fry. The Golden Pomme understands its fry. The shoestring format, double-fried in blended, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Golden Pomme, one appreciates.”

“At The Golden Pomme, the shoestring fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”