Broadway Spud

“Not every establishment in Jackson Heights understands its own fry. Broadway Spud understands its fry. The wedge format, triple-fried in lard, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The wedge fry at Broadway Spud maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“There are establishments in Jackson Heights that treat the fry as a supporting player. Broadway Spud is not among them. The wedge format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“A kitchen that triple-fries in lard has made a commitment. At Broadway Spud, this commitment is honored. The wedge fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One finds at Broadway Spud a wedge fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Broadway Spud knows this.”