The Imperial Fry

“The fry at The Imperial Fry does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The steak cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The fry at The Imperial Fry does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The steak format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”