Jacques Santos's Dining Room

“The shoestring fry at Jacques Santos's Dining Room does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Jacques Santos's Dining Room, one arrives closer to an answer. The shoestring fry, double-fried in lard, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”