Pierre Devereaux's House

“The wedge fry at Pierre Devereaux's House has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One returns.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in lard has made a commitment. At Pierre Devereaux's House, this commitment is honored. The wedge fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“Not every establishment in Carroll Gardens understands its own fry. Pierre Devereaux's House understands its fry. The wedge format, double-fried in lard, produces a crispness that is aspirational and an interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Pierre Devereaux's House, one appreciates.”