The Proper Dining Room

“The curly fry presents itself at The Proper Dining Room with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The curly fry at The Proper Dining Room does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is aspirational, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. The Proper Dining Room applies it correctly. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Proper Dining Room knows this.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Proper Dining Room belongs to this school. The curly fry, triple-fried in blended, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“A kitchen that triple-fries in blended has made a commitment. At The Proper Dining Room, this commitment is honored. The curly fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present as a rumor within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The fry at The Proper Dining Room does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The curly cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Proper Dining Room, one appreciates.”