Leopold Chen's Table

“There are establishments in Inwood that treat the fry as a supporting player. Leopold Chen's Table is not among them. The waffle format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One does not seek drama at Leopold Chen's Table. One seeks fries. The waffle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Leopold Chen's Table knows this.”

“The waffle fry at Leopold Chen's Table is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“One does not seek drama at Leopold Chen's Table. One seeks fries. The waffle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Leopold Chen's Table belongs to this school. The waffle fry, triple-fried in sunflower, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”