Petrov's Brasserie

“The double-fry technique employed at Petrov's Brasserie produces a matchstick fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The blended is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The matchstick fry at Petrov's Brasserie maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in blended has made a commitment. At Petrov's Brasserie, this commitment is honored. The matchstick fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The fry alone merits the journey to Long Island City.”