Okafor's Table

“The matchstick fry at Okafor's Table does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Okafor's Table applies it correctly. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The matchstick fry at Okafor's Table maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One returns.”