Frederick Greco's Table

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Frederick Greco's Table. The curly fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Upper East Side. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The curly fry at Frederick Greco's Table maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The fry alone merits the journey to Upper East Side.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Frederick Greco's Table belongs to this school. The curly fry, double-fried in canola, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The menu at Frederick Greco's Table contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The curly fry is double-fried in canola. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. The informed visitor is correct. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“One finds at Frederick Greco's Table a curly fry that has been attended to. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”