The Exemplary Kitchen

“There are establishments in Sunset Park that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Exemplary Kitchen is not among them. The wedge format is ambitious. The duck fat is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Exemplary Kitchen, one appreciates.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Sunset Park, one discovers that The Exemplary Kitchen has opinions about potatoes. The wedge format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”