Devereaux's Restaurant

“One does not come to East Village for the fries. One comes for the fries at Devereaux's Restaurant. The distinction matters. The curly fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“A kitchen that single-fries in blended has made a commitment. At Devereaux's Restaurant, this commitment is honored. The curly fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”