Leopold Moreau's Bar & Grill

“One does not seek drama at Leopold Moreau's Bar & Grill. One seeks fries. The matchstick format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The crispness of the matchstick fry at Leopold Moreau's Bar & Grill is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Leopold Moreau's Bar & Grill belongs to this school. The matchstick fry, double-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The argument is persuasive. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”