Laurent's Bar & Grill

“Laurent's Bar & Grill occupies a modest address in NoHo. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The crinkle format is executed in duck fat, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The fry at Laurent's Bar & Grill does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The crinkle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”