Stanhope's Establishment

“Stanhope's Establishment occupies a modest address in Upper West Side. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The curly format is executed in peanut, double-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One returns.”

“One visits Stanhope's Establishment for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The curly cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The fry at Stanhope's Establishment does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The curly format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Stanhope's Establishment knows this.”

“The curly fry at Stanhope's Establishment does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Stanhope's Establishment applies it correctly. One returns.”