Stanhope's Brasserie

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Stanhope's Brasserie, one arrives closer to an answer. The matchstick fry, double-fried in duck fat, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The fry at Stanhope's Brasserie does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The matchstick format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. The address is committed to memory.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Stanhope's Brasserie belongs to this school. The matchstick fry, double-fried in duck fat, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”