James McCarthy's Concern

“The crinkle fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. James McCarthy's Concern understands this. The kitchen has chosen blended, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“One does not come to Sunnyside for the fries. One comes for the fries at James McCarthy's Concern. The distinction matters. The crinkle fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The crinkle fry at James McCarthy's Concern does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. James McCarthy's Concern applies it correctly. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”