The Refined Wedge

“The wedge fry at The Refined Wedge is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“One does not seek drama at The Refined Wedge. One seeks fries. The wedge format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”