Fontaine's Brasserie

“One visits Fontaine's Brasserie for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The shoestring cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The fry alone merits the journey to Fordham.”

“One does not seek drama at Fontaine's Brasserie. One seeks fries. The shoestring format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”