Dupont's Dining Room

“One does not come to Midtown West for the fries. One comes for the fries at Dupont's Dining Room. The distinction matters. The curly fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The fry at Dupont's Dining Room does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The curly format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. One returns.”