Moreau

“The thick-cut fry at Moreau does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Moreau knows this.”

“The thick-cut fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Moreau understands this. The kitchen has chosen beef tallow, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”