The Sovereign Dining Room

“The shoestring fry at The Sovereign Dining Room represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The address is committed to memory.”

“The shoestring fry at The Sovereign Dining Room represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The shoestring fry at The Sovereign Dining Room represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”