The Proper Frite

“At The Proper Frite, the crinkle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The triple-fry method produces an exterior that is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Proper Frite belongs to this school. The crinkle fry, triple-fried in lard, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The argument is persuasive. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The crinkle fry at The Proper Frite is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One returns.”

“One does not seek drama at The Proper Frite. One seeks fries. The crinkle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The crinkle fry at The Proper Frite does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is aspirational, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. The Proper Frite applies it correctly. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”