Klein's Table

“Klein's Table occupies a modest address in Riverdale. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The curly format is executed in lard, double-fried to a finish that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The curly fry at Klein's Table does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The fry alone merits the journey to Riverdale.”

“The curly fry at Klein's Table does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is aspirational, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Klein's Table applies it correctly. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Klein's Table, one appreciates.”