Pierre Fairfax's Restaurant

“The steak fry presents itself at Pierre Fairfax's Restaurant with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The address is committed to memory.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Pierre Fairfax's Restaurant has one of its own. The steak fry is triple-fried in lard. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The fry at Pierre Fairfax's Restaurant does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The steak format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”