Céleste Laurent's Table

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Céleste Laurent's Table, one arrives closer to an answer. The matchstick fry, triple-fried in vegetable, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“One visits Céleste Laurent's Table for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The matchstick cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The matchstick fry at Céleste Laurent's Table does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”