Village Wedge

“The waffle fry at Village Wedge requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. duck fat has been employed with discretion. One returns. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“One visits Village Wedge for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The waffle cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“A kitchen that single-fries in duck fat has made a commitment. At Village Wedge, this commitment is honored. The waffle fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”