Devereaux's Establishment

“The thick-cut fry at Devereaux's Establishment represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The beef tallow does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Devereaux's Establishment, one appreciates.”

“The thick-cut fry at Devereaux's Establishment is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Devereaux's Establishment produces a thick-cut fry of adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition exterior and present and largely coherent interior. The beef tallow is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One returns.”

“The thick-cut fry at Devereaux's Establishment maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Devereaux's Establishment knows this.”