The Gilded Frite

“The crinkle fry at The Gilded Frite maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The crinkle fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Gilded Frite understands this. The kitchen has chosen beef tallow, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The fry at The Gilded Frite does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The crinkle cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry alone merits the journey to Prospect Heights.”

“One finds at The Gilded Frite a crinkle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”