The Proper Fryer

“There are establishments in Sunnyside that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Proper Fryer is not among them. The curly format is ambitious. The vegetable is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The curly fry at The Proper Fryer represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The vegetable does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The fry alone merits the journey to Sunnyside.”

“The curly fry at The Proper Fryer is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One returns.”