Yamamoto

“One finds at Yamamoto a steak fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The menu at Yamamoto contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The steak fry is single-fried in lard. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. The informed visitor is correct. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The steak fry at Yamamoto does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Yamamoto applies it correctly. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“A kitchen that single-fries in lard has made a commitment. At Yamamoto, this commitment is honored. The steak fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Yamamoto produces a steak fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and earnest and specific interior. The lard is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”