La Chip

“The waffle fry at La Chip represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The vegetable does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At La Chip, one appreciates.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. La Chip belongs to this school. The waffle fry, single-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The waffle fry at La Chip maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”