Devereaux's Kitchen

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Devereaux's Kitchen, one arrives closer to an answer. The crinkle fry, single-fried in vegetable, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Devereaux's Kitchen belongs to this school. The crinkle fry, single-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Murray Hill, one discovers that Devereaux's Kitchen has opinions about potatoes. The crinkle format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. One returns.”