Augustin Okafor's Tavern

“One does not arrive at Augustin Okafor's Tavern lightly. The matchstick fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The double-fry technique is evident in the exterior: commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. This guide notes the address. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Augustin Okafor's Tavern knows this.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in canola has made a commitment. At Augustin Okafor's Tavern, this commitment is honored. The matchstick fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Augustin Okafor's Tavern belongs to this school. The matchstick fry, double-fried in canola, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The argument is persuasive. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The matchstick fry at Augustin Okafor's Tavern is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”