Les Wedge

“Not every establishment in Harlem understands its own fry. Les Wedge understands its fry. The waffle format, triple-fried in duck fat, produces a crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The waffle fry at Les Wedge does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“One does not arrive at Les Wedge lightly. The waffle fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The triple-fry technique is evident in the exterior: adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. This guide notes the address. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The waffle fry at Les Wedge does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Les Wedge. The waffle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Harlem. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”