Bowery Plank

“The shoestring fry at Bowery Plank represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The duck fat does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“At Bowery Plank, the shoestring fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The triple-fry method produces an exterior that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Bowery Plank belongs to this school. The shoestring fry, triple-fried in duck fat, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”