Georges Dupont's Dining Room

“The curly fry at Georges Dupont's Dining Room requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is architecturally significant. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. lard has been employed with discretion. One returns. The address is committed to memory.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Georges Dupont's Dining Room produces a curly fry of architecturally significant exterior and earnest and specific interior. The lard is evident and appropriate. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The curly fry at Georges Dupont's Dining Room has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (architecturally significant), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (calibrated with clinical precision). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”